Izakayas are my absolute favorite thing about Tokyo! Here’s everything you need to know:

How ordering works: You’ll usually be given a menu and can order whenever you want — just flag down staff with a friendly “sumimasen!” (excuse me). Most modern izakayas have picture menus or tablet ordering systems — a lifesaver!

Essential dishes to order:

• Yakitori — grilled chicken skewers, especially “negima” (chicken + spring onion) and “tsukune” (chicken meatballs)
• Edamame — the universal starter, usually comes automatically
• Karaage — Japanese fried chicken with yuzu mayo, impossibly good
• Dashimaki tamago — rolled omelette with dashi broth, a hidden gem
• Takoyaki — octopus balls (at some izakayas), crispy outside, molten inside
• Mentaiko potato salad — creamy potato salad with spicy cod roe

Drinks etiquette: You must order at least one drink per person — it’s considered rude not to. The first round is traditionally beer. Toast with “Kanpai!” and always pour for others before pouring for yourself.

Tipping: Do NOT tip in Japan — it can cause offense. A sincere “Oishikatta desu!” (It was delicious!) at the end is the highest compliment.